Photographer Swaps Paddles for Pedals Capturing Culture, Life and Legacy of River Spey
A Highland photographer has swapped his paddles for pedals as he continues a year-long project to capture the culture, life, and legacy of the River Spey.
Having completed a full, 10-day canoe descent of the Spey in July, Ed Smith from Kingussie has now set off on his all-terrain mountain bike, fully loaded with his still camera, sound recorder and camping kit. Spending 13 days on his bike through the rest of October, Ed will circumnavigate the catchment area of the Spey, covering a distance of around 500km (approx 300 miles) as his work connects with communities and the environment connected to the Spey.
The project explores the changing landscape and identity of the Spey region, which is undergoing significant environmental and economic development.
Throughout the self-funded expedition, Smith is documenting his journey through analogue photography, video, and interviews, engaging with everyone from whisky distillery owners and hoteliers to conservationists, school pupils and local families. The third stage is planned for January 2026, when he will complete a winter canoe descent, followed by a final ride in April 2026, tracing the river from sea to source. Ultimately, Ed is planning an immersive exhibition and book to showcase and celebrate his findings, hoping to spark further discussion and debate on the Spey’s future.
Reflecting on the first part of the journey and what might follow, Ed explained, “My full canoe descent of the Spey this summer, 29 years after first making the trip as a child with my dad, was eye-opening. There were sights I expected, from traces of Victorian-era influence to fresh signs of beaver activity, but this time I truly appreciated how much the river is shaped by the land and its use.
“One of the biggest surprises was how stretched the Spey felt. I saw temporary pumps diverting water to reservoirs and learned more about the extent of water shortages along its path — something I had never been aware of before. Yet I was equally struck by how the Spey continues to sustain communities, as it has for centuries. From floods that have shifted its course to the industries that have thrived along its banks, the river has a powerful presence.
“What has surprised me most, though, is the number of people — individuals, groups, and businesses — who have reached out to share their stories and their deep connection to the Spey, some of them having lived beside it for over 50 years, others newcomers setting up home here from as far as India! There is no doubt that the River Spey upholds both an enchanting and resourceful draw which reaches far beyond its banks, but there is also little doubt that this balance will have to be carefully nurtured to protect its future.
“As I set off on my bike, I plan to record more audio, stopping along the way to talk with people and capture their stories. The canoe stage was a more linear journey, but this part will allow me to connect with communities in a different way. Everyone I’ve spoken to so far has been incredibly welcoming and positive about the project, and I’m excited to keep building those connections.”
The second-longest river in Scotland and the seventh-longest in the UK, the River Spey rises in the Monadhliath Mountains to the west of Laggan in the Highland Council Area and flows 100 miles (160 km) east and northeast into Moray, where it joins the sea at Spey Bay. It has a catchment area of 3,367 sq. km (1,300 sq. miles) and, on its route to the Moray Firth, it passes through the towns of Newtonmore, Kingussie, Aviemore, Grantown-on-Spey, Charlestown of Aberlour, Craigellachie, Rothes, and Fochabers.
This is not the first time Ed has documented his work for a wider audience. As the owner of Eleven41 Gallery, 35 High Street, Kingussie, Ed has exhibited numerous documentary projects alongside fine art prints, with award-winning and shortlisted work also exhibited further afield. Ed also published his first book in 2023, a ‘personal and unique’ perspective of the Northern Cairngorms. ‘Northern Cairngorms’ captures a collection of almost 70 wilderness, mountain and environmental images depicting the six years that Ed has lived and worked in the area, many taken during the harsh yet stunning winter months.
To follow and support the year-long project, connect with Ed on Instagram @edsmithphoto, visit www.edsmithphotography.com, or get in touch directly at 07772 170 970.